Supplies:
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| My supplies |
- Alcohol Ink (such as Tim Holtz Adirondack Alcohol Ink)
- Blending Solution (Rubbing Alcohol or Ranger Adirondack Alcohol Blending Solution)
- Glazed White Tile
- Enamel Gloss Clear Spray Paint
- Black Acrylic Paint and paint brush or Black Sharpie Marker
- Black felt (or color of your choice)
- Mod Podge or hot glue
- Exacto knife or scissors
- Paper Towels
- Rubber gloves
- Card board
- Wax Paper
- Plastic table cloth to cover work surface
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| Example of ceramic tiles |
So let’s talk
about those supplies. You don’t have to
spend a lot of money on your tiles, in fact, I usually pay about $.15 each
for mine at Home Depot (plus I buy them in bulk online and pick them up in the
store – LOVE THIS OPTION!)
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| Tim Holtz Adirondack Alcohol Ink |
I like using
the Tim
Holtz Adirondack Alcohol Inks – they come three to the pack and are sold at
your local craft store (can we say coupon?) for about $9.99. I’m sure you can use any brand of alcohol
inks, but I like to use what I can find (BTW- there are some tutorials out
there on how to make these tiles using Sharpies, but I have never gotten it to
work for me).
I also like using the Ranger Adirondack Alcohol Blending Solution while others prefer the rubbing alcohol. To me, the rubbing alcohol can make the inks gritty, so it’s worth the $5 for the blending solution. I use the rubbing alcohol to clean my tiles first to make sure I have the cleanest surface before dropping the ink – again, things can get gritty if there is any dust or debris on the tiles. The rubbing alcohol is also useful if you get the ink on your hands or clothing – it may help lift the stain if used immediately (but wear old clothing just in case).
I also like using the Ranger Adirondack Alcohol Blending Solution while others prefer the rubbing alcohol. To me, the rubbing alcohol can make the inks gritty, so it’s worth the $5 for the blending solution. I use the rubbing alcohol to clean my tiles first to make sure I have the cleanest surface before dropping the ink – again, things can get gritty if there is any dust or debris on the tiles. The rubbing alcohol is also useful if you get the ink on your hands or clothing – it may help lift the stain if used immediately (but wear old clothing just in case).
I recommend wearing
gloves. Mine are a set of dish gloves
because I feel like I can get a better grip on the bottles and the tiles with them rather than the latex gloves. I will say, I didn't wear them for the
majority of this project (it was hot…) and I’m sporting some colorfully stained
hands and nails today. If you don’t mind
this “artist” look for a few days – go for it!
The paper
towels are for excess ink and clean up.
The card board, wax paper and plastic table cloth is to protect you,
your furniture and everything else in your home. This is a messy project that leaves lasting
stains and can even take the varnish off furniture (you should see my kitchen
table – it’s not pretty). I actually
spent $3 to upgrade to a vinyl table cloth with a felt back – no ink has made
it through yet! Plus with the card board, it easy to move the tiles to another
location while drying and transporting them outside to use the sealant, you
know, in case you actually want to use your kitchen table for something other
than arts and crafts.
The black
paint or Sharpie is to finish off the edges of the tile to make it look more
crisp and finished. If you’re using the tiles as coasters, you’ll
need to use a sealant. If not, the ink
will flake or scratch off. You can glue felt onto the bottom of the tile to keep from scratching your furniture.
This is a fun
project to work on and is easy to do, but it is time consuming because you have
to wait in between steps. It usually
takes me 3-4 days to completely process a batch of these tiles.
Onto the
project!
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| Prepped surface with wax paper covered card board and prepared tile. |
2. If you haven’t already, put down the plastic table cloth onto your work surface. Line your card board with wax paper and place a couple of tiles onto it. I like to work with more than one tile at a time – it’s faster when you’re making batches.
3. Next, put on your gloves. I like to work with only ONE color at a time when using the inks, that way I don’t mix up the caps or forget to put the cap back on and knock over the bottle.
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| Shows first color and how the ink blooms |
4. Select the
color that you would like to use. Gently
drop one drop of ink at a time onto the tile. Think of it like food coloring. Keep it spaced
out – the color will bloom and spread (well, most of the time).
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| Second color added and bloomed. Notice that ink isn't spreading as well on second tile. |
5. Next, add the second color and so on until most of the tile is covered. Remember, a little ink goes a long way and this is just the base color. Keep adding color until most of the tile is covered.
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| Notice the white flecks on the second tile |
6. You might
notice that you have white “flecks” on your tile where the ink is not
absorbing. This could be a flaw in the
glaze, etc. It’s okay, the next steps
should help cover it, but sometimes, you just have to let go and live with the
white spots…
7. Using a bunch
of paper towels, gently blot the ink on the tile to help pick up the excess ink
and to cover the remaining white areas.
Work fast because the ink will dry quickly.
8. Repeat steps
4-5. If you like the results, stop you’re
done. Or you can use the Ranger
Adirondack Alcohol Blending Solution or rubbing alcohol for a different
look by dropping small amounts onto the tile (like the ink) and watching it
bloom. I like to wait a few minutes for it to dry and then add more ink. This
will help give you that "in depth" layered look. At
some point, you will need to walk away from the inks.
9. Let the tiles
dry for a few hours, but preferably, overnight to 24 hours is best. If you spray the sealant and the ink isn't dry enough, it could cause the ink to run.
10. If you have
not already, paint the edges of your tiles or use the sharpie. When painting, I also like to paint a little of the back as well just in case the felt doesn't fully cover. Let the paint dry.
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| Coasters after sealant spray |
11. Next: READ THE DIRECTIONS ON YOUR CAN OF SEALANT. They may be different than mine. When using the
spray clear sealant, it’s best to work outside (even though the can says "or in a well-ventilated
area"). Working outside can present its
own issues such as humidity (don’t try it) or rain. I usually will spray a good layer of sealant
on the tile, wait the few minutes that
the can say it takes to dry, then spray a second coat. Then wait at least the recommended minutes of
drying before moving the tiles back inside before moving them inside, but if it’s
a nice enough day, I’ll leave them outside for a little while (fumes can be
harsh). When I say moving them inside, I
mean move the wax paper covered card board with them on it inside. DO NOT TOUCH THE TILES FOR AT LEAST 24 HOURS
or you may leave finger prints. I did
say this was a lengthy process…
12. 24 hours
later, glue the felt to the back of the tile.
I like using Mod Podge for more coverage plus you don’t feel the glue
behind the felt like you can with hot glue.
I then take my exacto knife and carefully cut the tile out and use the
scissors to clean up the edges if needed.
Note: Mod Podge can take a few more days to dry where as hot glue is pretty much ready to go.
Enjoy your Alcohol Ink Tile Coasters!
Note: Mod Podge can take a few more days to dry where as hot glue is pretty much ready to go.
Enjoy your Alcohol Ink Tile Coasters!
